Yesterday it reached 28-degrees so I decided to take a walk on Noordhoek Beach. I wanted to take the bus but the taxi got to me before the bus did. The driver didn’t have change for R10 so he said I could hold on to my money. I gave him an orange in lieu of payment. We got talking and he told me he lives in Masiphumele (the township on the other side of Kommetjie). A few days ago there was a huge fire in Masi which has destroyed a large number of houses, leaving people homeless and having to start all over again as everything they owned has been ravaged by the fire. My heart goes out to them. My brothers plumbing assistant lives in Masiphumele too, and by the time I got home, the trailor was being loaded with mattresses and a bed base as James’ possessions have been destroyed too.
I feel safe using public transport in Cape Town at any time of the day or night. I’ve never had a problem when it comes to my safety. I believe that when you’re in someone else’s territory, if you just respect them and their culture, you shouldn’t have a problem. It’s like that all over the world.
If you plan on taking a bus to Noordhoek, you’d be well advised to check the bus timetable well in advance. The Noordhoek bus route is very irregular. During the week there are only 7 buses per day – 4 before 9am and then 4 between 13h30 and 18h00. If you miss the bus, you’re pretty stranded as taxis on the route are few and far between. On Saturday’s there are only 5 buses to Noordhoek. Sunday there are no buses. One way tickets cost R7 per person so it’s really cheap.
There are a number of good restaurants in the area, including Noordhoek Farm Village (at least 3 restaurants), and The Red Herring Trading Post closer to Noordhoek beach. Then there’s Monkey Valley Beach Resort which is open to day visitors for breakfast, lunch and dinner. They often have live entertainment at Monkey Valley (www.monkeyvalleyresort.com or tel. 021 – 789 1391 for reservations).
Noordhoek beach has a big parking lot for about 60 cars or more. There is a security guard on duty. He always gets a bottle of water or juice or a snack from me when I go there.
There is a shipwreck (the ‘Kakapo’) on the Kommetjie end of the beach which takes around 30 minutes to reach by foot from the parking area. It’s a pleasant walk. The Kakapo left Cape Town for Sydney on 26 May 1900. Captain Nicolaysen saw Chapman’s Peak and thought it was Cape Point. He turned sharp east but instead of ending up in False Bay, he parked his boat on Noordhoek Beach. The boat ploughed so deep into the dune that the crew were able to step out of the boat without getting their feet wet. Since 1918 the Slangkop Lighthouse in Kommetjie has prevented such mishaps from happening again. The wreck isn’t a safe landmark to visit on your own or as a couple though. I’ve never seen a beach patrol or security on the beach. Within the last 3 months, 3 tourists were mugged at the lighthouse. One of the victims was also punched in the face by their assailants. From my garden, the shipwreck looks like a car that’s parked in the middle of the beach so I’ve been tempted to risk the walk on 4 occasions with no problem whatsoever. It’s easier and faster to reach the wreck from Kommetjie.
From the beach parking lot, you get a gorgeous view of the entire stretch of unspoilt, pristine beach. Some websites claim that Noordhoek beach is 6 kilometres long; others claim it to be over 8 kilometres. There is a wooden walkway (about 100 – 150 meters long) which takes you to the sand. I’ve often found that there is a lagoon teeming with birds and the endangered African Black Oystercatcher – usually after some heavy rains. Horse riding is common in common in Noordhoek, and beach rides can be arranged. Behind the beach is a National park-protected wetlands. Behind the wetlands rise magnificent mountain slopes, densely overgrown with coastal fynbos and vineyards.
At one end of the beach is Chapman’s Peak which plunges into the sea, and at the other end, the quaint seaside fishing village of Kommetjie. Chapman’s Peak connects Noordhoek to Hout Bay and the city centre (call 021 – 791 8220 or 021 – 791 8222 to check if Chapman’s Peak is open).
There aren’t hordes of people at Noordhoek so you get to choose your ideal spot to soak up some rays. The water is exceptionally cold on the Atlantic side of the peninsula, but I’ve managed to enjoy a few swims when the heat gets too unbearable. There are also a couple of good surfing spots.
